Messerschmitt Bf-109G-6
Scale: 1/24
Manufacturer: Airfix
Parts used: 1 Man Army Mask Set 24DET005
Main paints used: Tamiya, AK Real Colors
0:00 To start, we look at the build ahead and plan the build. 1:34 So, we start building the engine and how we will paint it to speed up the build. 18:57 With the engine block painted satin black and the coolant tank with metals, we mask up and paint the rubber strapping and straps. 30:21 Next up, we use the One Man Army mask set for the engine makings.
0:00 To start, we add the ignition leads and the engine mounts. 11:23 Next, we put together the exhaust and paint with AK 484 Brunt Metal 18:22 Now we can add the pipework. Here we use pens for the rubber joins and clips. 23:04 Lastly, we can add the remaining parts to complete the engine.
0:00 To start off with the cockpit, we cut out and clean up all the parts and assemble the cockpit. 6:51Next, we paint with Tamiya XF-26 and a drop of white added. I did this as I didn't have any RLM-66. Then, we dry bry everywhere with light grey oils. Next, we use marker pens to add in all the details. 19:28 Now we can decal the instrument panel and again dry brush and use UV glue to make the glass dials. 29:33 Last up, it's time to install the cockpit and bring the fuselage halves together.
0:00 Next, we move on to the wings and put together the wheel wells and open up the areas for the cannons. 12:50 To speed things up, we break out the mini drill to open up the holes needed. 16:50 Now it's time to close up the wings. 21:51 With the wings drying, we move into the tail and then install the wings to the fuselage.
0:00 To start, we install the front firewall on the model. 5:26 Next, we build the radiators in the mid open position. 18:26 Now we install the radiators and the flap in position, and then the alerons. 26:27 With the winds complete, we work on the MG131 guns over the top of the engines.
0:00 To start off, we install the engine and plumb it all in. 7:55 Next, we take care of some mall builds, like the lower engine cowling, intakes, and the wing cannons. 23:39 Here we put the gun sight together using UV glues. 31:32 Last up, we test fit into the cockpit.
0:00 First up, we use the kit's own mask set to mask the canopy clear parts 9:41 We quickly see the clear part at the rear doesn't fit!! After a look in more detail, it turns out I have missed a step in the instructions. 13:13 After a bit of cutting and sanding, we are back on track, and the clear parts fit perfectly. 17:32 Next, we glue in place and mask up the interior ready for painting. 20:39 First to paint the interior color on the outside of the clear parts, so they will show that color on the inside. 22:27 Now it's time to prime the whole model with Mr Surfacer 1000. 29:39 To finish off the priming, we make a wet mix of 80% thinner to 20% Surfacer.
0:00 To start off with, we re-scribe and re-rivet the model. 13:22 Next, we put on the light blue underside color, for this, we use Hataka orange line C038 Light Blur (RLM76) 19:38 With the light blue dry, we add a few drops of white to the mix to lighten and fade the centers of the panels. 25:34 To make the wiggley line on the leading edge of the wings, we use, White tac worms as a mask before the grey coat goes down 33:38 Next up, we use Hataka C007 Grey Violet (RLM75) for the grey camo on the top. We then add a few drops of white again to lighten the panels.
0:00 First up, we mark out the camo pattern with a water-based pencil and freehand the camo over the grey. Then we add 5 drops of white to the mix and lighten the centres of panels. 17:15 Next we move on with the modelling camo on the sides of the fuselage in both the Grey and the Green.
In this 1-hour video, we look at masking paint and stencils on the model instead of the normal decals. We look at how the work and a few tips and tricks to help with lining up the masks in the right place and using markers instead of airbrushing. Big thanks to 1 Man Army for supplying the mask set. Please visit 1 Man Army @ https://www.1manarmy.be/
0:00 To start, we paint the wheel wells, door, and cowlings with RLM02 3:30 Next, we dry-brush the parts with dark iron buffable 214 to give it a metal scrub to give a worn metal look to the parts. 15:10 Here, we put together the nose and spinner, ready for painting. 22:00 With the nose painted white and dry, we mask up for the spiral design. 33:30 With the nose then painted black and allowed to totally dry, we un-mask as see how it came out. 35:33 We test fit the nose to see how it looks.
0:00 In this part, we cover the first part of the weathering, using Flory Models Dark Dirt wash. 12:10 With the wash totally dry, we remove the wash with a damp paper towel. 26:50 Next, we use the rendering technique, watering down and mixing the wash to give a lighter effect.
0:00 To start off, we weather the underside with the rendered wash mix. 17:54 Next, we use oils for the oil and streaking marks. 28:36 Last up, we in-mask and clean up the clear parts.
In this final part, we add the canopy and attach all the engine covers and then attach the antenna wire and paint, then attach the isolating dots with UV glue and paint white all ready for the final reveal !!!
